Flores

Flores extends a long arm east from Komodo towards the Solor archipelago, its highland landscape punctuated by volcanic cones, its coastal waters fringed with nature reserves and a marine park. Diverse cultures with ancient traditions have survived in the isolated villages of the interior.

A 750km (470-mile) highway runs the length of Flores in a series of curves and switchbacks, from Labuhanbajo in the west to Larantuka in the east, and is plagued by landslides in the rainy season. For the hardy, a trip across the Trans-Flores Highway offers a look at many facets of one of Indonesia’s most interesting islands. In the west are the primarily Muslim Manggarais and in the east the majority Roman Catholic Sikkas of Portuguese descent.

By breaking the journey up into overnight stops, on one day travellers can be awed by the patterned rice fields near Ruteng, revel in the cool mountain air at Bajawa and snorkel at the marine national park in Riung. The next day could include Flores’s largest city, Ende, and sunrise at Kelimutu’s three crater lakes at Moni, passing cocoa, vanilla, coffee and pineapple plantations along the way. The final leg of the journey leaves the volcanoes behind and dips down to a gorgeous azure sea and enters former Portuguese strongholds at Maumere and Larantuka.

Places to visit in Flores

Ruteng

Ruteng is a pleasantly cool town situated up in the western hills. It is primarily a government centre and a good stopping-off place. The top of Golo Curu (Welcome Mountain) has great sunset views and an old Dutch church (5 minutes by bemo or a 45-minute walk). Rainforest-covered Gunung Ranaka (2,400 metres/7,874ft) looms over Ruteng – it is a four-hour walk to the summit – and is a good venue for birdwatching.

Kampung Ruteng, just outside Ruteng, features a stone ancestral altar. Todo village, 21km (13 miles) from Ruteng, is known for its megalithic stones and a drum whose head is reputedly covered by a woman’s skin. From Todo, drive to Denge village via Dintor and make a four-hour mountain trek up to Waerebo, 1,000 metres (3,280ft) above sea level. This is the only remaining village in Manggarai where traditional houses still exist. Built on five levels, with high-pitched straw roofs, the living areas are at the bottom and the top four levels are used for storage. With the assistance of BirdLife Indonesia, the 35-member Waerebo Tourism Body was formed to improve the local economy through environmental conservation and low-impact tourism. A local travel agency can arrange an overnight stay in one of the houses, which is inhabited by eight families.

Bajawa

Bajawa's attractions are its cool mountain air, exquisite yellow-on-black supplementary warp sarongs and traditional villages. More than any other area of Flores, the Ngada region has retained its traditions and rituals despite the veil of Catholicism. Bena, Luba, Langa, Gurusina and Nage villages offer examples of Ngada’s ancient culture. All have ngadhu shrines, with carved tree-trunk bases, and bhaga – miniature houses – in the village centre. The ngadhu and bhaga symbolise male and female tribal ancestors who are said to live in the shrines. Interesting megalithic stones are easiest to find at Bena and at nearby Wogo Tua (Old Wogo). The week-long Reba festival begins in Bena in late December, then moves to other villages according to dates selected by their adat (local customs) leaders. Wearing traditional ikats, the people dance around the village and sing to reconcile humans and nature.

Gunung Kelimutu

A couple of hours’ drive northeast of Ende are three adjacent volcanic crater lakes on Gunung Kelimutu, the island’s main tourist attraction. The lakes, at an altitude of 1,640 metres (5,380ft), are separated only by low ridges and, curiously, are of different colours. Like chameleons, their colours have been constantly changing since Gunung Iye in Ende erupted in 1969. Theories for the changes in colours range from imbalances in bacterial and micro-organisms to dissolving minerals as the water eats through the rock. Village elders say the colours remain constant, but optical illusions make them appear to be different. The best time for viewing is at sunrise. The trip up to the lakes can be arranged at your lodgings in Ende or in Moni where, in addition to a new Australian-standard eco-lodge, there are several losmen.

Maumere

Maumere is the entrance into Flores for many visitors, as flights are more reliable than into Labuhanbajo. The Catholic Church, with its large coconut holdings, is behind much of the development here. Although the town and nearby Catholic seminary were severely damaged in a 1992 earthquake and tidal wave that killed 2,400 people along the north coast of Flores, little evidence remains of the tragedy. Visit Maumere’s market to see local women with swept-up hairdos dressed in traditional weavings, bright green or yellow blouses and heirloom ivory bracelets. While made in the same manner as Ende’s, the ikat cloths of Maumere have a greater variety of colours. Watch weavers at work in nearby villages Watublapi, Sikka or Nita. Snorkelling and diving off Maumere’s fine beaches have suffered from dynamite fishing.

Ledalero Museum on the outskirts of Maumere has an interesting collection of regional ethnological objects. The little museum is run by Ledalero Catholic Seminary, where many of Indonesia’s priests study and are ordained. It is attached to the church, and visitors are welcome – ask at the church for the museum to be opened.