Sumbawa

Larger than Bali and Lombok combined, Sumbawa’s contorted form is the result of violent volcanic explosions. It was Gunung Tambora that isolated the people of the west from the eastern Bimanese for centuries. So separate are they that the native language of the Sumbawanese is more akin to those of the Balinese and the Lombok Sasaks, while the Bima language is more like those of Flores and Sumba. Javanese Hinduism never made it this far east, and most Sumbawans are devout Muslims: visitors should wear respectful attire away from the beaches, particularly in the east.

Until fairly recently, there were only two reasons to visit this little-known island: to hire a boat from Sape in the east heading for Komodo National Park or to catch a big wave on its west or southeast coasts. Improved air services to Labuhanbajo, Flores, from where the sail to Komodo is much easier and prettier, have negated the first reason, leaving surfing as the island’s biggest attraction. The breaks at Hu’u attract championship surfers, and sunsets from the beaches are stunning.

There are a few other relatively unnoticed things to do and see in Sumbawa. The rich and famous use part of Pulau Moyo, off the north coast, as a luxury remote getaway. Moyo is also a nature reserve protecting forest and wildlife, and there are trekking opportunities. The mighty Gunung Tambora is also waiting to be climbed, and there are megaliths believed to be related to those in Sumba.

Places to visit in Sumbawa

Batu Tering

The hills east of Sumbawa Besar contain large stone sarcophagi, carved in low relief with human forms and crocodiles. Batu Tering, about 29km (18 miles) south of Sumbawa Besar, has megaliths said to be the royal tombs of ancient chiefs, a Neolithic culture that thrived about 2,000 years ago. About 2km (1¼ miles) beyond is Liang Petang (Dark Cave), with stalactites and stalagmites resembling humans and weaving looms.

Pulau Moyo

Two-thirds of this island is a game reserve to protect the island’s deer, banteng wild ox, 21 bat species and wild boars. The flora here ranges from savannah to dense jungle containing teak, tamarind and banyan trees. There are two waterfalls; the one near Labuan Aji village is an easier trek. South of the island the water is crystal clear and the reefs undisturbed, ideal for snorkellers and divers, with a white-sand beach opposite the island at Tanjung Manis.

Moyo is accessible in about 45 minutes by speedboat from Sumbawa Besar. Alternatively, fishing boats can be hired from Ai Bari. Simple accommodation is available at Tanjung Pasir on the mainland. The luxurious Amanwana resort, with modified villas using canvas tent toppings, is also on Moyo. It’s totally isolated, and bookings have to be made in advance.

Gunung Tambora

Serious climbers may want to ascend Gunung Tambora. In 1815, some 100 cu km (25 cu miles) of debris were ejected into the atmosphere with a force equivalent to that of several hydrogen bombs, creating “the year without summer” in 1816. Located on the northern peninsula of Sumbawa, the gaping, 2,821-metre (9,250ft) high caldera offers spectacular views on a clear day. The ascent begins at Calabai, a small logging town on the coast. It is a very difficult three-day climb and a guide is imperative.

Bima

At Bima, if there is a festival going on, you may catch pencak silat (martial arts) and other dance performances at the sultan’s palace. At the pasar (local market), you’ll see women wearing colourful Islamic headscarves that are unique to this region; unmarried women must cover everything except their eyes.

There are several traditional villages in the hills east of Bima, where the people fled to escape Islamisation in the 17th century. Donggo is the oldest. Women here still weave indigo cloth, from which they make their traditional clothing. The Donggo people adhere to a traditional animistic religion.